Antica Trattoria Costone

Put this restaurant on the list as another one that I have eaten at but forgot to take my camera to. I am sorry that I do not have any first hand photos but luckily, they have a nice website. (It’s in Italian but the photos and map are all you need.)

Our friend Roberto flew into Italy to take care of some business and of course when friends are in town, we go out to eat. He picked this restaurant, which happens to be in “The Guides” (Slow Food and The Gambero Rosso) too and recommended it to us.

The atmosphere was very sophisticated. The tables were set impeccably, the silverware was elegant, the wine glasses were Riedel and I was impressed. Most of the times when I eat at so-called “sophisticated” restaurants the prices are high, the staff snobby and the food only “so-so” but in this case, I was totally taken by surprise. This restaurant was very down to earth. The chef came out many times to talk to his guests and commented on how he thought my baby was a boy. When we told him we were from Torino and that we were late because we got a bit lost, he prepared an extra dish for us. He was a very nice guy and a very talented chef.

Both Deme and Roberto chose the “Surprise” tasting menu while I ordered alla carte. I had a terrine of duck liver (room temp.) that was accompanied by wonderful homemade bread, Neapolitan tortellone filled with burrata and made with tomatoes from Mt. Vesuvius and for the main course a 44 hour baby pork roast that was mouth meltingly tender yet had the most delightfully crispy skin.

The men enjoyed 8 dishes, too many for me, that were all wonderful. The highlights were the branzino (aka Mediterranean sea bass) tartar with lime sorbet, the fresh basil pasta with saffron sauce and a sweet pumpkin gnochetti with mussels. All the dishes were small but ample, creatively plated and delicious. The caviar, shrimp, fish and seafood were all fresh, what more could one ask for. The tasting menu was reasonable at 70 Euros. I cannot wait to go back. This time after the baby is born so I can really indulge.

Antica Trattoria Costone
Via IV Novembre, 10
21020 Galliate Lombardo (Varese)
Tel. or Fax +39 0332 947 104

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